Having Problems at the Spotting Board

Having Problems at the Spotting Board?

Problem solving techniques

The following problem techniques, which have been successfully used at the Dan Eisen International Independent Analysis Service, and may help you avoid a claim.

Fabric Facts: A durable twill weave cotton fabric with blue dyed yarns and white undyed yarns.

Problem: Color loss in drycleaning or wetcleaning.

Solution: Put garment in water with liquid bluing.

Fabric facts: Two fabrics held together by an adhesive binder.

Problem: Separation.

Solution: Steam on press. Apply head pressure, top steam, vacuum with head down. Next try a hot head press if fabric permits. Sometimes spraying with a little water soluble sizing may help.

Fabric facts: A tightly woven twill weave.

Solution: 1) Try spraying with water while steaming and brushing with velvet brush.

2) Spray with 28% acetic acid. Allow to dry and dryclean.

3) Use an emery cloth or find sandpaper to slightly rough up the ridges and reduce light reflection.

Fabric facts: Synthetic fabric made from cellulose.

Problem: Discoloration due to sizing shifting.

Solution: Use fogging process. Steam affected area with steam gun held a few inches from fabric and dry with air. Wetclean as a last resort.

Fabric facts: A natural fabric obtained from the silk worm.

Problem: Loss of luster and discolorations.

Solution: Soak in a mixture of mineral oil and solvent. (7 ounces of mineral oil and 1 gallon of solvent).

Caution: Soaking garments in pails with perc may be illegal in areas due to EPA regulations. Dye pads are also effective.

Laidlaw Tip: Use Silk Sheen which not only is a mineral oil bath but contains brighteners also!

Acetate
Fabric facts: Heat sensitive thermoplastic in nature.
Problem: Delustering caused by water and steam in pressing.
Solution: Spray with 14% acetic acid. Allow to dry. Dryclean. Repeat if necessary.

Fabric facts: Heat sensitive.

Problem: Stretching.

Solution: Place on the buck of the pressing machine and gather in stitched areas so little waves are created. Use a hand iron held a few inches above fabric and apply steam from iron while vacuuming. Do not touch.

Fabric facts: The fur from an angora rabbit.

Problem: Shrinkage.

Solution: Soak in water to which a cationic detergent and softening agent has been added.

Soak for 15 minutes. Rinse. Extract. Dry for two minutes. Place on buck of pressing machine. Steam and pull fabric and then vacuum.

Laidlaw Tip: Use Power Brite and Soften-All both which are cationic in nature.

Fabric facts: A knit fabric with a pile yarn.

Problem: Loops unraveling.

Solution: Use a latch type needle to correct.

Fabric facts: Vegetable fiber.

Problem: Acids cause a color change.

Solution: Flush area and apply a mild alkali.

Problem: Pre-spotting caused a discolored or light area.

Solution: Routine wetcleaning often cures this. Use a mild detergent.

Problem: Dye bleeding after wetcleaning.

Solution: Wetclean fabric again using extra agitation and a long extraction. Dry quickly on a steam air finisher.

Laidlaw Tip: Use Soft 'N Brite

Problem: Steam causes skin to shrink.

Solution: Spray on 15% acetic acid. Carefully stretch skin. Add neutral spray. Allow to dry. Dryclean.

Problem: Glue bleed.

Solution: Soak in perchloroethylene solvent. Reclean.

Fabric facts: A plastic fabric that is kept soft with a plasticizer.

Problem: Loss of plasticizer in cleaning causes fabric to turn stiff.

Solution: Obtain commercial plasticizer from the distributors. Follow manufacturer's instructions for soaking or spraying.

Fabric facts: Animal Fiber

Solution: Straight edge razor or electric razor. Hold fabric taut when attempting correction.

Problem: Shrinkage.

Solution: See angora.

Laidlaw Tip: Use Power Brite and Soften-All both which are cationic in nature.

This article is used with permission from Dan Eisen and The National Clothesline (www.natclo.com).

Dan Eisen recently retired as chief garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after 33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars, consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.