The How To's of Using RSR (or Spotting with Digesters takes Patience)

Let's talk about another chemical that is among the spotting board's missing in action--digesters.

A lot of you still have the same jar of digester you bought 15 years ago. Every blue moon you need it, so you go dust it off only to find out it has a very hard, thick crust on top. You go to the back room and get your trusty screwdriver, break through the top layer of the digester and if you are lucky, you actually find powder underneath.

Now you are ready to apply your digester. You put it on the stain, apply your steam gun and wait five minutes. Nothing happens. You become disgusted and sentence your jar to another five-year term on the back shelf!

This scene I just related isn't something I made up. Unfortunately, it happens much more than I'd  like to admit. Let's look at what went wrong and the how and why. First, you should know what a digester is. A digester is an enzyme that safely removes albuminous/protein stains from fabric. The key word here is safely. It's especially important when the stain is on an alkaline sensitive fabric, which means you may not be able to attack those stains with your alkali spotter without losing color. Rather than use that "sorry tag", why not use a digester?

I am assuming you now what an albuminous/protein stain is--things like gravy, blood, discharge, vomit, milk, egg, glue, beer, chocolate, coffee and fish slime just to name a few. In other words - anything that comes from a body.

Laidlaw RSR is a powder digester. Be careful of liquid digesters. They seem to break down very quickly which gives them a very short shelf life. Liquid digesters usually come dated and should be stored in the bottle in a cool area if possible. This slows down the decomposition. Nobody, Laidlaw included, has been able to come out with a truly great liquid digester.

Powdered digesters, on the other hand, are extremely useful to the spotter who wants to elevate himself above the norm. Because enzymes need moisture to be activated, you can activate them at your convenience, not the manufacturer's.  You've just learned rule No. 1 about enzymes. Without moisture the enzymes cease activity. Therefore, the fabric must be kept wet.

Rule No. 2 is the fabric must remain neutral. Residual acid (tannin spotters) or alkali (protein spotters) will more than likely destroy the enzyme, so flush out and/or neutralize before apply your digester.

A lot of spotters fog the area with their steam gun, apply the digester and then proceed to blow away or kill the enzyme with their steam gun. How did they do this? By bringing the steam gun too close to the fabric. If you hold the gun 1 inch away you are applying heat in excess of 400 degrees F which destroys the enzyme..

Enzymes like an environment that is roughly 100 to 120 degrees F. Under 90 degrees F and over 145 degrees F, the enzyme diminishes or ceases activity. You can see what 400 degrees F does! Remember our opening scene where the spotter waited 5 minutes and got frustrated because nothing had happened?  Enzymes take anywhere from 15 minutes (very rare) to several hours to work. A good norm is 45 minutes to an hour. One thing I do know for sure, if you have the patience and the stain is of albuminous matter digestion will eventually work. It is just a matter of time.

Let's look at how you as a professional spotter can safely use digesters.

Bath Form:

A. Get a bucket of lukewarm water, 100 to 120 degrees. F If you stick your hand in the water and it's bath temperature, you're o.k. Too cold/hot will kill the enzyme. Go in your local convenience/package store and buy a Styrofoam cooler. Not only will it keep the beer cold, but it will hold the water at the proper temperature for your enzyme for three or four hours.  This eliminates what many of us have resorted to from time to time: stick the steam gun in the bucket of water to heat it up and almost instantly kill the enzyme. Then you get made at the manufacturer for selling you something that you think doesn't work.

B. Apply 1 teaspoon of digester per gallon of water.

C. Put in garment(s) but do not crowd the bath.

D. Put a clean towel over the garment(s) to keep them submerged.

E. Be patient. Remember 15 minutes to four hours or more.

F. Rinse and dry, Cold water, gentle cycle.

Pre Spot-Rerun Method

A. Prepare a fresh solution daily (when needed) of one teaspoon RSR in eight ounces of warm water or neutral lubricant (TERGIT for example), 100 to 120 degrees F.

B. Apply solution to the stain.

C. Set garment aside for 15 to 20 minutes in a warm place. Do not allow to dry. Remember, tough stains may require more time, so keep adding the solution to keep it moist and warm.

Sometimes you can place the garment on a press if the workers are done for the day. This will keep the garment warm also, assuming there's still heat in the press.

D. Apply leveling agent.

E. Dryclean.

Spotting Board

A. Wet out area with warm water or neutral lubricant.

B. Apply RSR to stain.

C. Rub RSR in gently with gloved fingers.

D. Keep spot wet.

E. Follow directions C-D-E under Pre-Spot method.

There you have it. If you take the time to learn about digesters, you will be the hit of your town this year. Hello digesters, goodbye underarm rings, protein stains, etc.

For more information on RSR digester and tips for using, including the removal of rings from draperies, click here

This was written by Mike Achin, Director of Chemical Products for Laidlaw Corp.

Copyright 2000 Laidlaw Corporation.